We had known for a long time that one of the most difficult and dangerous parts of our journey would be crossing from Nigeria into Cameroon. Since late 2017, the entire South West of Cameroon has been pretty much impassable due to the so called ‘Anglophone crisis’ or ‘Ambazonian war.’ The few travellers who have [...]
As we continued our journey East, Nigeria continued to surprise, amuse, frustrate and delight. At 5am I was awoken by a loud, insistent hammering on our hotel door. It was not as I first assumed, a fire, a robbery or a kidnapping attempt, but the maid dropping off an extra bog roll. I wouldn’t have [...]
We awoke the following morning to news that the riots had spread. South African businesses around the country had closed their stores. Eye witnesses had given accounts of masked men with machetes roaming Lagos’s streets, searching for foreigners. I wished we could have found a nicer hotel to barricade ourselves in..
It’s fair to say that Nigerians get a bad rep. Mention Nigeria in most Western countries and it won’t be long before someone starts cracking jokes about that prince who ‘just really needs your help to rescue his millions of dollars’. Their reputation in the rest of Africa is if anything worse. There is an [...]
I don’t know exactly what I expected from a voodoo priest, but this slight, elderly man with twinkling eyes, was definitely not it. Barefoot, dressed from head to toe in embroidered white robes and with a necklace of brightly coloured beads, he looked more like a kindly grandfather than a commander of dark magic. At [...]
Crossing into Ghana it was immediately apparent that we had arrived in a much more developed country. The last 5 countries we had visited; Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Cote d’ivoire are amongst the 20 poorest in the world, Ghana meanwhile sits somewhere around the middle of the Human Development Index. For one [...]
From Man we headed South to Park Taï, one of the last remaining areas of primary rainforest in West Africa and home to forest elephants, pygmy hippos and chimpanzees. The chimps in Park Taï chimps are unique, they hunt through teamwork, use more than 26 tools and are particularly famous for their nutcracking skills. Half [...]
I had always expected that my 30th birthday would end in a police chase rather than begin with one, but that was the unusual situation I somehow found myself in. The day before, Leon, Jim, Fabian, Heleanor and I had finally made it to the Côte d’Ivoire border. Leon and I were travelling with a [...]