The Banyo Border

The Banyo Border

We had known for a long time that one of the most difficult and dangerous parts of our journey would be crossing from Nigeria into Cameroon. Since late 2017, the entire South West of Cameroon has been pretty much impassable due to the so called ‘Anglophone crisis’ or ‘Ambazonian war.’ The few travellers who have [...]

The Road to Afi Mountain

The Road to Afi Mountain

As we continued our journey East, Nigeria continued to surprise, amuse, frustrate and delight.  At 5am I was awoken by a loud, insistent hammering on our hotel door.  It was not as I first assumed, a fire, a robbery or a kidnapping attempt, but the maid dropping off an extra bog roll. I wouldn’t have [...]

Ventures into Voodoo

Ventures into Voodoo

I don’t know exactly what I expected from a voodoo priest, but this slight, elderly man with twinkling eyes, was definitely not it. Barefoot, dressed from head to toe in embroidered white robes and with a necklace of brightly coloured beads, he looked more like a kindly grandfather than a commander of dark magic. At [...]

The slave coast

The slave coast

Crossing into Ghana it was immediately apparent that we had arrived in a much more developed country. The last 5 countries we had visited; Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Cote d’ivoire are amongst the 20 poorest in the world, Ghana meanwhile sits somewhere around the middle of the Human Development Index. For one [...]

The Tizi n’test

The Tizi n’test

The Tizi n’test is what I had been looking forward to perhaps more than anything else in Morrocco, a famously dizzying, heart-stopping road through the High Atlas mountains towards Marrakesh. Fortunately it did not disappoint. We set off from Oulad Berhil, a small village around 10km west of the turnoff for the Tizi n’test. The [...]